| The roads were incredibly bumpy. I really didnt want to drive. I had
people bouncing all over in the back of the truck. The well sat so far downhill. At first
the ladies and kids were shy, but we said, Muli Uli, Nili Makado and they
laughed. Some babies screamed at the sight of Mzungus. Then they started to sing and
dance, and it was such a beautiful thing, living in the moment with the beautiful people
of Malawi. On day two, I was yanking out a heavy bag of bottled water when the plastic handle let loose and I punched myself right in the eye. I saw stars and I couldnt open my lid, it hurt so badly. My first thought was retinal detachment, since two people in my family have suffered from this. And it has to be treated immediately, or I could lose sight. What should I do? I had insurance. Call for a helicopter? This could be serious. But what if it wasnt? It would be so embarrassing to be flown out only to be diagnosed with a new floater. So I took a deep breath and tried to calm down. There were several times when Bob and I thought we might be in medical danger a slight cough, is it TB? A headache, is it malaria? As I looked around at the sweet kids at the well, I saw one boy with a pussy eye almost swollen shut. He gently rubbed it. It had to be so uncomfortable. When would he see a doctor? Would they have the right medication for him, or would he have to live with this indefinitely? One girl was shaking. Did she have malaria? Would there be medication for her, and aspirin to bring down the high fever and chills? We complain about our health care, but its not like this! |
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I have to drive again. Its OK on the tarmac. Its OK on the dirt roads even if it shakes your teeth out and makes you wonder if your spinal column is up to the task. Its the narrow gravel slippery roads on the side of a hill that get me. It looks like the truck could roll so easily with just one slip. And its the boulders that look high enough to pop a gas tank or any other indispensible parts under a truck. Its the bridges made of twigs that dont look like theyd hold a person, let alone a one ton vehicle. Its the streams and gullies. Sometimes I feel like Im heading down a double black diamond ski hill, only the moguls are boulders. Yesterday we got stuck in the mud and the wheels were spun in deep. I was sure we would be sleeping in that truck for the night. But the workers pushed and we got out. Now Bob, on the other hand, loves the driving. He says people would pay big bucks to be able to off road like this. For him, its a blast. |
| The women, with the help of the kids, manage all of the water. Some walk far
to get to the well. Some hike down steep inclines. Getting there is one thing. Its
walking back, with five gallons of water on your head thats the hard part. Five
gallons, thats forty pounds sloshing around up there. They fetch water not just once
or twice. Some go six times a day. A doctor told me one of the biggest complaints is
backaches. With fetching water, hoeing, sweeping and all their other chores, its no
wonder! So many babies, and some moms look like kids themselves. Weve sung more head shoulders, knees and toes, hokey pokey, ABCD, and happy birthday than I thought possible. Terrie thought it would be fun to sing Zip a dee doo da, and it was! The kids giggle and jump around. Then the women join in. They sing so beautifully. They talk and smile and sing, and can they dance! While everyone circles around singing, two women get in the middle and start a sort of dance competition. Suddenly Im being pulled in. So I jump and dance and we all laugh. |
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I find myself connecting most with the old ladies, the ones with no teeth. I
know they must be younger than me! But they dont have flabby arms with all that
water fetching. An old feisty lady was dancing. She had such bad cataracts that I
dont know how she could see. Her pupils were like milk. You could tell that she
loved to play with the kids, because they were all dancing around her. One jumped up and
pulled her scarf off and she got a shocked look on her face. Then she laughed and went
back to dancing. When things calmed down, they gave me a baby to hold. So sweet, and a little wet with no diaper. I thought they might ask me to take him to America like others have done. But they took him back. The field officers are great. They dont slow down, even for potty breaks. Some villages dont have latrines, so its off to the field you go. |
It makes me shudder to see the looks on the villagers faces when the
clear water pours out of their new well. Its heart wrenching to look at their
previous source of water - a dirty stream with cows and pigs hanging around, or a muddy
pit with water the color of clay.
Speeches given by headmen are daunting. They talk about how they have waited years for
clean water, about how they have been battling diarrhea all their lives, about the babies
who have died. One headman said (through a translator), Not only do we get clean
water, but Mzungus have come to our village and now our children are able to see white
people before they die.
One field officer talked about how clean water impacts lives. Families who live in the
cities avoid visiting grandparents in the villages, because they dont want to expose
their children to the dangerous water. Clean water is a blessing to the village, as well
as to the extended family.
One field officer told us about how he did not develop for the first four years of his
life. Every night his mother thought that this would be his last. He had cerebral malaria.
Than at age four, he recovered. He has dedicated the rest of his life to God.
| Well, you cant play the license plate game here with so
few cars and all definitely local. But it would be fun to play the T shirt game. I bet I
saw a T shirt from every single state Wisconsin Badgers, Indiana University,
Colorado Rockies. These are all worn by folks who havent a clue what their own shirt
means. How about Dont eat yellow snow, What happens on spring
break stays on spring break, or War is hell, but moving is a close
second, The worlds longest stationary bike race. As I looked
closer, I realized that many were of cartoon characters from 30 years ago, Smurfs, Blues
Clues, Tweedy bird. Where have these shirts been over the past three decades? Now many are
frayed to shreds, but still serving a purpose. One nice older man had on a Christmas T
shirt, the kind a kindergarten teacher would wear with a snowman and a lighted tree. One
little girl had on an outfit that I swear was my sisters Halloween clown costume
forty two years ago. I wondered if this girl was the envy of her neighborhood, or if she
hated putting that thing on every day. She sure looked cute! The people we met are just like us in many ways. They love their children. They laugh and sing. They are smart and thoughtful. But in one glaring way we are worlds apart. I have more than I could ever want, and they have next to nothing. While Im eating more food than I can even stand, many of them are going hungry. While I can go on shopping sprees to my hearts content, they simply have no expendable money. While I can travel the world over, they can barely leave their villages. There is something very special about the villages - silent starry nights, no traffic, close caring ties that come from depending on one another, peaceful days, uncluttered by the rat race of western societies. Would I want to trade with them? No. The hunger would be too great. The illnesses would be too overwhelming. But I hope I will remember to pray for them. I hope I will remember to support them, especially during times like these when their crops are dwindling and they have to wait for new food to grow. |
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By the end of the trip, I had gotten used to the driving. What was I so worked up about
anyway? Bob and I both treasure our memories of the peaceful people of Malawi. We will
never forget them.